Sea & Mountains: Adventures in Corsica on the Tra Mare e Monti Trail  21-30 October 2005
map caption By mail truck to Ajaccio, then on to Marseille aboard the Napoléon Bonaparte.
photo caption Leaving Porto after breakfast. We have to stroll half a mile up the road to the bus stop by the pharmacy.
photo caption A last look at the scenery of Porto valley before catching the bus down the coast to Ajaccio.
photo caption Posing for eBay. When he gets home, Will plans to sell his old rucksack (pictured) and get a new one. Any takers?
photo caption Jonica, Irina, and Will on the sea wall at Ajaccio.
photo caption Ed's view of our vacation. This was taken on board the Napoléon Bonaparte. Unfortunately, his camera battery ran out before we reached the ship's nightclub.
South to Ajaccio. Overnight ferry to Marseille.
Saturday, October 29th  One thing's been bugging Ed during this trip: his continual and so-far-fruitless search for an omelette. Everywhere we go it's just coffee, croissants and bread for breakfast. We've not seen a single egg in all of Corsica. The emphatic “Non!” of restaurant managers to Ed's request has by now become a daily ritual which the rest of us endure with “I told you so” looks on our faces.

This morning seems to be no exception as we sit down for a quick bite before catching the bus to Ajaccio. But our initially brusque host turns out to be quite genial, and, wonder of wonders, an omelette appears midway through our meal. Suddenly Ed has a new hero. He's so happy he even videotapes his plate of eggs for posterity.

Our “bus” picks us up from outside Porto's pharmacy. It's the local mail truck, with a few seats added up front for paying passengers. We cram in and set off up the twisting and perilous coastal road. The views are spectacular and petrifying, particularly so when our driver swerves to avoid oncoming traffic on the single-lane road.

We make brief stops at post offices in Piana, Sagone, and Cargèse, a seaside town notable for its Catholic and Greek Orthodox churches and large Greek community. It's early afternoon when we roll into the big city of Ajaccio.

We've got a few hours before our ship sails tonight, so we decide to make a base for ourselves on the beach. While Will and I go swimming and make a picnic lunch of some pizzas, Irina, Jonica and Ed head off shopping for souvenirs. All reunite back on the sand just as the tide begins to lap at our beachtowels.

Sundown. Our ferry, the Napoléon Bonaparte, hoves into view as we sit on the harbor wall finishing off the last of the wild boar salami given us as a gift by our hotelier in Evisa.

At 9pm we set sail for Marseille. There's talk of visiting the indoor hot tubs on Deck 10 but in the end we're all too tired. Instead we opt for a simple dinner. Afterwards we fall into a circle of plush armchairs at the over-the-top Café-Bar Le Galaxie and order whiskies.

Onstage, a couple of washed-up French lounge singers with a synth and a drum machine belt out covers ranging from the Beach Boys to “Lady in Red”. They sing the words phonetically, clearly clueless to their true meaning. It's truly atrocious and we all crack up laughing. But Jonica, a few French teens, and two four-year-old kids take things in the right spirit and hit the dancefloor. The rest of us head for our cabins.

Tomorrow: all's well that ends well.

cialis online free cialis viagra cialis hydrocodone online hydrocodone online prescription snorting hydrocodone discount levitra order levitra levitra clinical data phentermine 37 5 mg phentermine without a prescription phentermine overnight generic valium what does valium look like valium online consultation valtrex medication valtrex free samples valtrex dosage xanax addiction xanax overnight us no prescription xanax ambien orthostatic hypotension ambien obstructive sleep apnea ambien without prescription effects of carisoprodol soma carisoprodol dilaudid soma carisoprodol carisoprodol fioricet with codeine order c o d fioricet fioricet info soma adipex meridia online phentermine prescription viagra cal 30 magellan meridia gps marine meridia prozac paxil lawsuit celexa paxil zoloft vs paxil imitrex ultram buy ultram online ultram online cialis for women online cialis cialis samples hydrocodone addiction hydrocodone drugs hydrocodone overdose generic levitra cialis compare levitra buy viagra levitra alternative lavitra order phentermine phentermine no rx phentermine cod dj valium mp3 cheap valium drug valium valtrex and pregnancy valtrex canada acyclovir vs valtrex buy viagra levitra alternative lavitra overnight xanax buy xanax without prescription in usa side effects of drug xanax ambien latest side effects ambien withdrawl ambien generic buy soma carisoprodol purchase soma carisoprodol online watson carisoprodol soma pill id fioricet overnight soma fioricet fioricet on line meridia weight loss magellan meridia gps marine meridia drug quitting paxil celexa paxil vs celexa vs paxil ultram er 100mg ultram 50mg ultram detox cialis pill viagra cialis levitra cialis no prescription hydrocodone bitartrate what is hydrocodone online pharmacies hydrocodone viagra cialis levitra viagra medication prescription levitra cialis propecia difference viagra levitra cialis cialis compare levitra viagra cheap phentermine no prescription buy phentermine no prescription phentermine 37 5 diet pills valium online buy valium online no prescription valium valtrex long term use snl valtrex side effects of valtrex viagra cialis levitra difference viagra levitra cialis viagra medication prescription levitra cialis propecia cialis compare levitra viagra order xanax online buy xanax online without a prescription xanax effect ambien withdrawal ambien on line prices for lunesta and ambien carisoprodol 350mg compare soma carisoprodol watson watson carisoprodol soma picture c o d fioricet cheap fioricet w free shipping buy cheap fioricet how does meridia work meridia without prescription meridia online no rx paxil withdrawl paxil prozac vs paxil back ultram and pregnancy ultram what is it ultram addiction cialis drug prescription no prescription cialis cialis uk hydrocodone shipped overnight online hydrocodone pharmacies hydrocodone withdrawal cialis levitra online levitra cialis viagra comparison discount cialis levitra viagra cheap 37 5 phentermine buy phentermine cod cheap phentermine online xanax and valium without a perscription valium on the internet valium liquid form valtrex shingles valtrex without prescription valtrex pills discount cialis levitra viagra levitra cialis viagra comparison xanax xr buy xanax online with no prescription xanax no perscription cheap ambien ambien lawsuit website for ambien carisoprodol 350mg information buy carisoprodol online carisoprodol www soma cod fioricet with codeine side effects celebrex fioricet online hoodia diet pill buy fioricet meridia without perscription buying meridia online meridia dosage changing from paxil to celexa side effects generic paxil what is paxil generic ultram ultram tramadol ultram patient information tramadol tramadol hc tramadol er tramadol uk tramadol use eda tramadol 200 tramadol tramadol hci 180 tramadol cod tramadol tramadol 150 tramadol 377 tramadol 180 tramadol cod buy tramadol tramadol dog tramadol hcl 100 tramadol free tramadol tramadol apap tramadol info tramadol dogs tramadol 50mg tramadol ivax tramadol drug tramadol sales tramadol 100mg order tramadol tramadol cheap tramadol quick c o d tramadol tramadol 500mg dog s tramadol tramadol 180ct tramadol 50 mg tramadol abuse cheap tramadol tramadol forum tramadol 75 mg canine tramadol online tramadol herbal tramadol tramadol 200 mg c o d tramadol fed ex tramadol tramadol 100 sr tramadol dosage 100 mg tramadol tramadol 200ct tramadol ultram tramadol 100 mg tramadol canine tramadol canada tramadol 400 mg tramadol online tramadol retail ultram tramadol buy cod tramadol generic tramadol tramadol dangers buy 200 tramadol what is tramadol tramadol without tramadol on sale tramadol tablets tramadol lawsuit tramadol 180 cod buy tramadol cod tramadol pharmacy tramadol hcl 50mg tramadol canadian tramadol and cats tramadol medicine tramadol 200 tabs discount tramadol vetinary tramadol tramadol overdose medicine tramadol saturday tramadol tramadol in urine about tramadol hc tramadol withdraw narcotic tramadol next day tramadol tramadol for dogs cheapest tramadol purchase tramadol cheap tramadol cod drug test tramadol 180 tramadol cheap oxycontin tramadol tramadol 50 mg tab tramadol ibuprofen tramadol addiction tramadol and liver 50 hcl mg tramadol tramadol hcl 50 mg tramadol half life tramadol drug test tramadol overnight millenium tramadol tramadol adicition overnight tramadol buy cheap tramadol cod online tramadol perduretas tramadol painkiller tramadol tramadol 50 mg dog vicodin vs tramadol dog canine tramadol depression tramadol tramadol dependancy buy online tramadol tramadol medication buy tramadol online tramadol depression tramadol withdrawal picture of tramadol affect side tramadol order cheap tramadol tramadol and canines what is tramadol hci buy tramadol buy cod tramadol 180 tablets cheap tramadol 100mg tramadol information tramadol hci tablets paris cheep tramadol cheap tramadol no rx tramadol ingredients tramadol experiences what is tramadol hcl detox ultram tramadol cheap tramadol online tramadol prescription tramadol online cheap tramadol cod delivery tramadol order 100 mg side effects tramadol order tramadol online tramadol 180 saturday canine tramadol pills top tramadol websites buy cheapest tramadol tramadol and stoppage lexapro with tramadol tramadol 180count cod tramadol hydrchloride tramadol side effects tramadol hydrocloride pharmacy bot tramadol diazepan vs tramadol tramadol urine screen tramadol on piss test cheap tramadol 200ct cymbalota and tramadol tramadol hydrochloride tramadol similar drugs tramadol and overnight 180 tramadol overnight tramadol online hsnllc tramadol free shipping is tramadol a narcotic tramadol 50 mg tablets free dilivery tramadol tramadol habit forming tramadol hcl 50 mg tab tramadol not effective tramadol by mastercard tramadol acetaminophen cod overnight tramadol tramadol long term use tramadol and depression alprazolam and tramadol tramadol level in urine veterinary tramadol hcl hydrocodone vs tramadol tramadol and drug tests information on tramadol tramadol er 200 mg tabs compare prices tramadol purchase tramadol online cheap overnight tramadol 180 tramadol free fed ex tramadol no prescription online pharmacy tramadol no perscription tramadol tramadol discount prices buy tramadol in kentucky arthritis drugs tramadol interactions of tramadol lowest price of tramadol tramadol withdrawal side what is tramadol used for tramadol c o d overnight cod tramadol money orders cash on delivery tramadol tramadol cash on delivery tramadol recreational use tramadol drug information tramadol and breastfeeding tramadol addicting vicodin day delivery next tramadol dog canine ultram tramadol career in finance tramadol side effects from tramadol tramadol and pain efficacy detection time of tramadol buy tramadol online hsnllc tramadol saturday delivery tramadol taken with vicodin canine tramadol side effect cheep tramadol paris france denver real estate tramadol erowid tramadol experiences tramadol clonidine treatment tramadol and abrupt nonusage tramadol and first trimester tramadol withdrawal symptoms tramadol overnight toll free tramadol hcl acetaminophen hydrocodone tramadol on line tramadol good for depression tramadol and online pharmacy extreme lethargy dog tramadol long term effects of tramadol tramadol free shipping 100 mg tramadol cod cash on delivery tramadol without prescription buy tramadol online cheap cod tramadol compared to percocet tramadol en dolor neuropatico cheap tramadol cod free fedex nm board of pharmacy tramadol hydrocodone tramadol tramadol watson 466 tramadol medicines time before tramadol kicks in no prior perscription tramadol cheap tramadol fedex overnight urine drug testing of tramadol tramadol hydrochloride tablets pictures of tramadol hcl 50 mg urine drug screen and tramadol tramadol side effects for dogs cheapest prescription tramadol tramadol shipped priority mail purchase cheap tramadol online tramadol side affects dementia tramadol no prior prescription tramadol er prescription sales tramadol withdraw support group drug test tramadol hydochloride tramadol without a prescription tramadol 100 mg no prescription tramadol interaction with zoloft tramadol and fluoxetine combined tramadol avinza drug interaction buy prescription tramadol without buy tramadol without prescription side effects of the drug tramadol buy tramadol with no prescription tramadol quick shipped to florida cheapest tramadol available online generic pics of ultram or tramadol millenium pharmaceuticals tramadol buy 200 tramadol saturday delivery second mortgage loan rate tramadol medical information on tramadol hc side effects of tramadol in canines cheap tramadol without prescription cheap tramadol prescriptions online erowid hydrocodone buy tramadol now erowid hydrocodone what is tramadol ralivia er tramadol drug information will tramadol show up on a drug test tramadol more addicting than vicodin buy tramadol at a cheap price online tribrissen tramadol prednisolone dogs tramadol 180 count overnight delivery purchse tramadol without prescription buy tramadol online saturday delivery purchase tramadol without prescription buy tramadol online overnight delivery bu hydrocodone online tramadol on line hydrocodone and tramadol for withdrawl switching from hydrocodone to tramadol cheapest tramadol no prescription needed tramadol 180 count free overnight delivery buy tramadol online overnight delivery cod hydrocodone symptom withdrawal buy tramadol